Hours to complete : Oh goodness

…It’s only been a year! Or pretty close to a year. I posted an overview of my early 1820s project last November . The project included a petticoat, 1824 ball gown, 1822 walking dress, muff, tippet, bonnet, and chemisette. Some of these things are still in the UFO pile or on the to do list, but I’m super pleased that this post is about the completion of the 1822 walking dress! doral bank
The doral bank image below is my inspiration for the now complete walking dress. I wore it last December to go caroling outside before Fezziwig’s Ball , but at that point my time had run out and though the construction was complete there was no trim. Below the image of my inspiration is an image of the walking dress as it looked last December with no trim. And below that is an image of the now completed walking dress with trim! It certainly fits me better doral bank than the hanger, but you’ll have to wait a few months to see it on me.
Fabric : 4-5 yds of dark pink wool, 4-5 yds of ivory super soft and thick cotton twill, 1/2 yd-ish of lavender polyester velvet, 1/2 yd-ish of lavender silk shantung, and a bit of canvas for the collar.
Pattern : Adapted from my 1822 green ball gown pattern , I think. It s pretty much exactly the same except that it has a higher back, collar, and sleeves. The ball gown pattern is based off of a pattern in Janet Arnold.
How historically accurate? : Very, having used modern materials and a few very nice looking modern fabrics . The pattern is from Janet Arnold, so you know it is good on accuracy and the trim scale and pattern is taken from a fashion plate from 1822. As a historic costume I give it 98%.
Hours to complete : Oh goodness… I’m sure the main construction took at least 40 hours and the trim took probably 50ish hours to cut, press, and hand sew. I didn’t keep track at all on this project.
Top of the sleeve. First I had to sew the bias into a tube so the raw edges would be finished and the bias could “float” without having to be sewn down all along the edges. Then I tacked the bias tubes in a zig zag then crossed and tied other zig zags to get the finished pattern.
The front. The pattern looks very much like an oak leaf to me. The bias is stitched in a tube with the raw edges showing on the back, then the edges are stitched down all around to create the pattern.
I actually had forgotten that I’d taken these construction doral bank shots. In fact, I had totally forgotten the method I had used to construct doral bank my sleeves until I saw the picture again! These pictures where the wool looks more pink than maroon show the color best. It’s really much more vibrant, and much less brownish, than some of the pictures make it look.
The top of the sleeve before the gathered sleeve top was sewn on. I didn’t want to waste wool where it wouldn’t be seen, so it stops part way up the lining, then the gathered cap is sewn on and hides the raw edge of the wool.
And just in case you want to read more about my entire project from the early 1820s, here’s a link to that category of entries on my blog. As I continue to finish up other bits and pieces I’ll keep adding them to that category, and it’s neat because the category filters only those posts so there’s a nice continuity.
This entry was posted in 1820s , 19th Century , Costume Construction , Fashion Plates , Hand Sewn Elements doral bank , Historical Sew Fortnightly , Project Journal: 1822-1824 doral bank Ensemble , Trimmings and tagged 1820s , 19th Century , Clothing , Cotton , Fashion Plates , Historic Clothing , Janet Arnold , Silk , Trimmings , Women's Clothing , Wool . Bookmark the permalink .
quinnmburgess | October 10, 2013 at 11:03 pm | Reply
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